Things to See:

  • Bari Vecchia (Old Town) – The heart of the city. A maze of narrow cobblestone alleys where you’ll find nonne rolling orecchiette by hand right in their doorways. Just wander.
  • Basilica di San Nicola – One of the most important churches in all of Italy. Built in the 12th century to house the relics of Saint Nicholas (yes, the one who inspired Santa Claus). The relics are in the crypt.
  • Bari Cathedral (San Sabino) – Beautiful Romanesque architecture, massive rose window, and a 230-foot bell tower.
  • Castello Svevo (Swabian Castle) – 12th-century castle right near the old town with great views of the sea.
  • Lungomare Nazario Sauro – The seafront promenade. Great for a walk at any time of day, especially sunset.
  • Piazza del Ferrarese / Piazza Mercantile – The main squares of the old town. Grab a coffee and people watch.
  • Teatro Petruzzelli – One of the most beautiful opera houses in Italy, worth seeing from the outside at minimum.

Restaurants:

  • Al Sorso Preferito – The place that invented Pasta all’Assassina. Authentic, local, no frills—go here if you want to try the dish at the OG spot. Not my absolute favorite, but worth trying.
  • Panificio Santa Rita – Unbelievable Barese Focaccia. Nice and crispy, think American “Grandma” slice.
  • Panificio Fiore – Also absolutely delicious, but soft and chewy—more like an American “Sicilian” slice.
  • Terranima – Get everything, but the orecchiette is a must.
  • PerBaco – Solid local spot.
  • Osteria Le Arpie – Another great spot for orecchiette. You can get it with broccoli rabe, or the lesser-known version with bracciole—a hearty meat in red sauce. If you’re like me, you’ll get both.
  • La Uascèzze – Traditional, atmospheric dining.

Dishes to Try:

  • Focaccia Barese
  • Orecchiette – Cime di rapa (broccoli rabe and sausage) is probably the most well-known version in the States, but they’re all good.
  • Panzerotti – Similar to Pizza Fritta in Naples, think fried calzone.
  • Bracciole – Can be standalone in a sauce or as part of a dish.
  • Pasta all’Assassina – Pasta cooked directly in tomato sauce (no water), resulting in slightly burnt pasta with a spicy tomato kick.
  • Taralli – You’ve probably had these before, but they are SO fresh in Bari and Puglia as a whole.
  • Tette delle Monache (Nun’s Tits) / Sospiri – Delicious sponge cake pastries filled with cream.
  • Riso con Patate e Cozze – I’m sorry Bari, but this is a hard PASS. It may be a staple but there’s nothing exciting about it.

Polignano a Mare

Things to See:

  • Lama Monachile (Cala Porto) – The iconic pebble beach tucked between two cliffs beneath the old Roman bridge. The most photographed spot in all of Puglia. Arrive early in summer.
  • Piscine Romane – Ancient natural rock pools used as Roman fish traps. Still stunning today.
  • Historic Center – Poems are painted on the walls and doors throughout the streets. Really charming to wander.
  • Grotta Palazzese viewpoint – Even if you’re not eating at the cave restaurant, the viewpoint above it looking down into the grotto is worth seeing.
  • Domenico Modugno Statue – Birthplace of the guy who wrote Volare. His lyrics are also strung in lights down Via Roma at night.
  • Sea Caves – Best seen by boat tour. Over 40 sea caves along the coast.

Restaurants:

  • Grotta Palazzese – The famous cave restaurant built into the cliff overlooking the sea. One of the most unique dining experiences in all of Italy. Pricey, but the setting alone is worth it. Book way ahead.
  • MINT Cucina Fresca – Small, intimate, creative seafood bistro. Only a handful of tables so you need a reservation.
  • Pescaria – The OG fish fast food spot. Raw, fried, cooked—lines around the block. Get the octopus sandwich.
  • Nobilnonna – Great for a proper sit-down meal. Fresh seafood and excellent orecchiette con bracciole Barese.

Bars:

  • Casa del Mojito – Great cocktail spot in the old town, variety of mojitos, good vibe.
  • Super Mago del Gelo – More of a café but worth noting for their famous caffè speciale—espresso with lemon zest, cream, and amaretto. Very Polignano.

Rooftop Bars:

  • Aquamarea – Right on the cliff above Lama Monachile with one of the best views in town. Great for cocktails even if you’re not staying at the hotel.

Monopoli

Things to See:

  • Centro Storico (Old Town) – Whitewashed streets, hidden squares, great for wandering especially in the evening.
  • Castello di Carlo V – 16th-century castle overlooking the port. Great views of the Adriatic.
  • Porto Antico – The old harbor full of colorful blue and red fishing boats against the whitewashed backdrop. One of the most photogenic harbors in Puglia.
  • Cala Porta Vecchia – Small beach right inside the city walls. The most convenient swim in Monopoli.
  • Lungomare – The seafront promenade, best at sunrise or sunset.

Restaurants:

  • La Locanda dei Mercanti – Local institution, traditional Puglian food, fresh seafood. Needs a reservation even for lunch.
  • Osteria Perricci – Old school, no frills, steps from the port. Ask what’s freshest and just order that.
  • Porto Rosso – Seafront restaurant overlooking the bay of the same name. Full menu inside, casual pizza and cocktails on the terrace outside. Great for a long lazy lunch.
  • Carlo Quinto – Along the lungomare, great views. Try the seafood carbonara if you’re feeling adventurous.
  • N24 – Romantic setting with hanging lights and medieval stone walls. Ask for Jean-Pierre the sommelier, he’ll steer you right on Pugliese wine.

Bars:

  • Tuttoapposto Winebar – Tiny wine bar right on the Porto Antico with a great Pugliese wine selection. The aperitivo spot in Monopoli.
  • Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi – Not a single bar but the whole piazza comes alive after 5pm. Park yourself anywhere along the perimeter.

Rooftop Bars:

  • Hotel Don Ferrante – The most notable rooftop in Monopoli with panoramic sea views over the old town and harbor.

Alberobello

Things to See:

  • Rione Monti – The main district with over 1,000 trulli lining the winding stone streets. This is the heart of Alberobello. Yes it’s touristy, but it’s genuinely stunning—you really do feel like you’re in a fairytale.
  • Rione Aia Piccola – The quieter, more residential neighborhood of about 400 trulli. Far fewer tourists, much more authentic feel. Go here in the evening when the day-trippers are gone.
  • Trullo Sovrano – The only two-story trullo in existence. Now a house museum with original period furniture. Worth a quick visit.
  • Belvedere Santa Lucia – The best panoramic viewpoint over the trulli and historic center.

Restaurants:

  • L’Aratro – Slow Food certified, family run, classic Puglian dishes inside a trullo. Get the antipasto dell’Aratro and orecchiette with anchovies and cime di rapa.
  • Corte dei Trulli – More upscale, beautiful setting inside a renovated trullo. Great for a special dinner—the lobster linguine and seared tuna are standouts.
  • Il Guercio di Puglia – Known for Pinsa (Roman-style oval pizza) with top quality ingredients including Martina Franca capocollo. Gets busy after 9pm, make a reservation.

Bars:

  • Trulli e Puglia Wine Bar – Tables right in the Trulli zone, great spritz and focaccia with burrata. The spot for a drink among the trulli.
  • Paco Wines – Most well-known wine bar in town, good local selection.

Rooftop Bars:

  • Terrazza Panoramico Cummersa – Tiny rooftop terrace hidden inside a souvenir shop. Worth finding for sunset views over the trulli. Good spritz menu.

Ostuni

Things to See:

  • The White City (Centro Storico) – Ostuni is called the Città Bianca for a reason. Whitewashed maze of streets, staircases, and alleyways spiraling up a hilltop. Just wander.
  • Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta – Stunning late 15th-century Gothic-Romanesque facade with three incredible rose windows. Crowning jewel of the old town.
  • Panoramic Views – Multiple viewpoints over the olive grove-covered valley stretching toward the Adriatic. Worth finding a spot for sunset.

Restaurants:

  • Osteria del Tempo Perso – The most talked-about restaurant in Ostuni, set in a romantic alleyway with twinkling lights. Modern takes on classic Puglian dishes. Make a reservation.
  • Ostuni Bistrot – On the main piazza, family run (dad in the kitchen, mom at the bar). Great value, nothing on the menu to avoid.
  • Ristorante La Vecchia Terrazza – Great dinner spot with a terrace view back up the hill. Strong antipasto.

Bars:

  • Borgo Antico Bistrot – Hillside bar with panoramic views over the white city. Best spot for sunset aperitivo in all of Ostuni.
  • Casbah Risto Café – Trendy, picturesque bar right off the main piazza. Pricier than its neighbors but great for people watching especially after dark.

• • Gabo – Lovely bar set among trees, good for a coffee or cocktail break mid-wander.